The Photographs an Adjuster Actually Needs From You
Written by Claims Coordinator, Insurance Claims Coordinator, OCRV Center. Reviewed by Refinish Department Lead
In shortAn adjuster reads photos in three tiers: distance, mid range and detail, with a scale reference in frame. A phone flash flattens a dent, so shoot across the panel with raking light.
What photos does an adjuster actually need after RV damage?
An adjuster needs three tiers of photograph: a wide shot identifying the unit and where it sits, mid range shots of each damaged area, and detail shots with a tape measure in frame. Rancho Santa Margarita owners should also shoot the VIN plate, the data plate and the undamaged side before the unit heads to Yorba Linda.
- Shoot wide first, then mid range, then detail, in that order
- Put a tape measure or a coin in frame on every detail shot
- Use light raking across the panel instead of a flash aimed at it
- Photograph the undamaged side as a comparison reference
- Send originals, not screenshots, so the metadata survives
- Shot tiers
- ThreeDistance establishes the unit, mid range locates the damage, detail proves its depth
- Scale reference
- Tape measure or coinA detail photo with nothing for scale cannot be converted into a labor time
- Flash
- Off for body damageDirect flash fills a low spot with light and erases the shadow that reveals it
- Hail squares
- Shot from a fixed heightConsistent camera distance is what makes dent counts comparable between squares
- Written repair estimate
- $150Credited in full against an authorized repair, and it captures what no phone can record
Last verified
Your phone is already in your hand and somebody at the carrier has already asked you to send pictures. What nobody mentions is how few of the forty images in your camera roll will be usable. An adjuster is not browsing a gallery. They are trying to answer three questions off a screen: which unit is this, what got hit, and how far in does it go. Images that answer those get scoped. A blurry close up of a scuff with nothing in frame for reference gets a phone call instead, and a phone call costs days.
Claim photography is a shot list, not an art project. It has an order, it uses scale deliberately, and it accounts for the way a small sensor and a hard on camera flash conspire to hide the exact damage you are trying to show. The written half of the file, the logs and readings and invoices, is covered on the documenting damage page. Everything here is about optics: where you stand, what light you use, what you put in the frame, and where the camera simply runs out of ability.
The shots an adjuster is actually looking for
Three questions, in order. Which unit is this, and where was it when this happened. What areas are damaged, and how do they relate to each other on the body. How deep does each one go, and does it stop at the outer skin. An adjuster reviewing an RV file wants those answered before they open an estimating system, and they will build the number from whatever the images support.
That is why volume is not the goal. Twenty deliberate frames beat two hundred casual ones, because two hundred casual ones almost always answer question three and skip questions one and two. A GEICO reviewer looking at eleven tight shots of cracked gelcoat has no idea whether they are looking at eleven separate impacts or one impact from eleven angles, and the safe assumption for them is the smaller one.
- One wide establishing frame with the whole unit and its surroundings
- Four corner frames, taken at roughly forty five degrees to each corner
- One flat elevation of each side, taken square to the body
- A mid range frame of every damaged area, showing its position on the body
- Detail frames with a scale object in every one
- The VIN plate, the data plate and the odometer or hour meter
Distance, mid range and detail, in that order
Start at forty feet or wherever the whole unit fits in the frame with room to spare. This shot is not about the damage at all. It establishes that this is a forty two foot coach, in this lot, in this row, at this angle to the aisle. On an unwitnessed hit in a storage facility it is often the frame that answers the question of how the contact geometry worked.
Move to mid range next, six to twelve feet, one frame per damaged area, framed so the reviewer can see where on the body it sits. A crack means one thing eighteen inches from a slide opening and something else in the middle of a blank sidewall. Mid range is what carries that relationship, and it is the tier owners skip most often, jumping straight from a distant shot into a macro of the crack itself.
- One wide frame with the whole unit and the surroundings, from about forty feet
- Four corner frames at roughly forty five degrees, working around the unit in one direction
- One square elevation of each side and one of each cap, from twelve to fifteen feet
- A mid range frame of each damaged area from six to twelve feet, showing its position
- Detail frames from two to three feet, square to the panel, scale object in frame
- The same detail again from an oblique angle, with light raking across the surface
- The equivalent area on the undamaged side, framed identically, as a comparison
- VIN plate, data plate, odometer or hour meter, and the license plate
- The two video clips, taken last so the stills are not interrupted
Scale references that make a photograph usable
A close up with nothing in it for scale cannot be turned into a labor time. The reviewer has no way to know whether that crease is four inches or fourteen, and a fourteen inch crease across a laminated sidewall is a completely different repair from a four inch one. Put something in frame with a known size and the guessing stops.
A tape measure pulled out along the damage is the best option, held so the numbers are legible and the zero end is at the edge of the damage. A rigid ruler is second. A coin taped beside a small dent works and is better than nothing, since a quarter is a size every adjuster in the country recognizes instantly. Whatever you use, keep it in the same plane as the surface, not floating in front of it, because a reference held closer to the lens reads larger than the damage it is meant to size.
Two more references earn their place on a big unit. A stepladder or a person in a mid range frame gives vertical scale on a tall sidewall. And where dents are being counted rather than measured, the practice of marking a square on the panel and holding the camera at a consistent height is what makes counts from different squares comparable at all.
Lighting, and why a flash hides a dent
The single most common photographic failure on a body claim is a direct flash. An on camera flash throws light straight down the lens axis, which means it fills every shallow depression with light and removes the shadow that made the depression visible. Owners send a flash photo of a dent they can plainly see with their own eyes and the image shows a clean panel with a bright spot in the middle of it.
The fix is raking light: light travelling nearly parallel to the surface rather than perpendicular to it. Stand so the sun or a shop light is off to one side and low, then shoot along the panel rather than at it. A low spot in a gelcoat or a painted aluminum skin suddenly reads as a dark band with a highlight beside it. Early morning and late afternoon do this on their own, which is why overcast noon is the worst possible time to shoot body damage.
For interior water staining the opposite applies. Diffuse light and no flash, because a flash blows out the contrast between a stained panel and a clean one. If a ceiling panel stain is faint, backing off and including the surrounding clean panel in the frame gives the reviewer a reference tone to judge against.
Note
Turn the flash off and find the light instead. If you can only shoot at midday, hold a phone flashlight low and to one side while a second person takes the frame. Cross lighting a panel is the difference between a dent that photographs and a dent nobody can see.
What a phone camera physically cannot capture
There is a hard limit here and it is worth understanding, because owners are sometimes told their photos were insufficient without being told why. A phone has a small sensor, a fixed aperture, aggressive noise reduction and lossy compression that smooths exactly the sort of low amplitude surface deviation you are trying to document. The processing that makes a family photo look good actively erases a shallow crease.
Then there are things no camera of any kind can record. A moisture reading is a number from a meter, not an appearance. A hairline crack in a weld under an undercoat looks like undercoat. Delamination behind an intact gelcoat surface looks like gelcoat. Frame deviation of half an inch across a forty foot chassis is invisible in any photograph ever taken. Fault codes live in a module and are dated there. None of that is a photography problem, and no shot list will solve it.
So the division of labor is clear. Photographs establish what is visible, where it is, and how big it is. Measurement establishes what is not visible. A file with excellent photos and no measurements gets scoped as a cosmetic repair, which is precisely how a structural loss ends up underwritten as a panel job.
Video, and the two clips worth taking
Two clips, and stopping at two is deliberate, because long video is the format adjusters are least likely to watch. The first is a continuous lap of the unit at a steady walking pace, held at chest height, at a constant distance of roughly eight feet, starting and ending at the same corner. One unbroken take. Its value is that it cannot be assembled from selected moments, so it establishes the whole condition of the body in one piece of evidence.
The second is functional. If a slide, an awning, a door or a compartment is involved, record it operating, or failing to operate, from a position where both the control and the moving part are visible. A Solera awning arm that binds at the same point every cycle is obvious in nine seconds of video and impossible to convey in stills. Say the date and the location out loud at the start of the clip.
Timestamps and metadata
Every photo your phone takes carries embedded metadata: the capture date and time, the device, the lens, and usually the location if that is enabled. On a delayed discovery claim, that embedded date is frequently the strongest single piece of evidence in the file, because it is not something you typed. Check that your phone clock and time zone are correct once, and it will be right for every claim after that.
Metadata is fragile in specific ways. Screenshotting a photo destroys it entirely, and owners screenshot constantly to crop or to annotate. Sending images through some messaging apps strips it. Downloading, editing and re saving can rewrite it. The rule is simple: send the originals, and keep your own copy of the originals somewhere you will not tidy up.
Before you proceed
Do not screenshot claim photos. A screenshot is a new image with a new date and none of the original capture data. Share the album or upload the files, and keep the originals until the file is closed and paid.
The shots owners almost always miss
The undamaged side is first, and it surprises people every time. A frame of the opposite side, taken from the same distance and angle as the damaged one, gives a reviewer a direct baseline for paint condition, decal condition and panel alignment. It is also what stops pre existing chalking or an old repair from being folded into your claim, or your fresh damage from being dismissed as more of the same.
Second is identification. The VIN plate, the data plate with the weight ratings and build date, and the odometer or hour meter. These get skipped because they are not damage, and then somebody at the carrier spends two days establishing which unit the photos belong to. Third is the ground: gouge marks, glass, debris, a paint transfer on a bollard, the tire position in the space.
Fourth is the areas nobody thinks to look at. The roof from a ladder, shot flat rather than at an angle. The lower skirt and the underside behind the impact. The interior wall directly opposite the point of contact, because that is where a substrate failure shows first. The hitch, tow bar or tag axle area on a towed unit. And the roof top array, which sits above the camera line on every frame anyone naturally takes.
- The undamaged side, framed identically to the damaged side
- VIN plate, data plate, odometer or hour meter, license plate
- The ground at the scene: gouges, glass, debris, paint transfer
- The roof, shot flat from a ladder rather than from the ground
- The interior surface directly opposite each point of impact
- The lower skirt, the underside and any tow or hitch hardware
- Roof top solar panels, vents and air conditioner shrouds from above
What we do, and what you do
- We tell you which frames your carrier will actually use and which tiers are missing from what you have already sent.
- We reshoot the unit properly at intake with raking light, scale in frame and the roof and underside covered.
- We supply the measurements and scan data that no photograph of any kind can produce, and we attach them to the same file.
- You take the first photographs, because you are the only person present on the day the damage is found.
- You keep the originals with their metadata intact until the file is closed and paid, and you send files rather than screenshots.
Carriers we bill directly
- AAA SoCal
- GEICO
Appendix: questions and answers
- What should I put in frame as a scale reference on a detail shot?
- A tape measure pulled along the damage with the numbers legible and the zero end at the edge is best. A rigid ruler is second, and a coin taped next to a small dent works. Keep the reference in the same plane as the surface, because anything held nearer the lens photographs larger than the damage it is sizing.
- Why does an adjuster say my flash photo does not show the dent?
- Because a flash on the lens axis fills a shallow depression with light and removes the shadow that made it visible. Turn the flash off, put the light source low and off to one side, and shoot along the panel so the light rakes across it. A low spot then reads as a dark band with a highlight beside it.
- Why photograph the undamaged side of the unit?
- It gives the reviewer a baseline. Framed at the same distance and angle as the damaged side, it shows what your paint, decals and panel alignment looked like before this loss. That reference cuts both ways: it keeps old chalking out of your claim and it keeps fresh damage from being dismissed as more of the same aging.
- Does screenshotting a claim photo remove the capture data?
- Yes. A screenshot is a new image with a new timestamp and none of the original capture information, and that embedded date is often the strongest evidence in a delayed discovery file. Send originals, keep your own copies, and if you need to mark something up, send the untouched file alongside the annotated one.
- Which two video clips are worth taking on a damaged coach?
- One continuous lap of the unit at a steady walking pace, chest height, about eight feet out, starting and ending at the same corner in a single take. Then one functional clip of the slide, awning or door operating or failing to operate, with the control and the moving part both in frame. Keep each under a minute.
- Why are hail test squares photographed from a fixed height?
- Because dent counts from different squares are only comparable if the camera was the same distance away each time. Vary the height and one square looks denser than another purely from perspective. Hold the phone at a consistent height above the marked square, shoot flat down, and include the tape marking the square edges in frame.
- What kind of RV damage can no phone photograph show?
- A moisture reading, because that is a number from a meter. A hairline weld crack under undercoat. Delamination behind intact gelcoat. Frame deviation across a long chassis. Fault codes stored in a module. Those require measurement and a scan, which is what the in shop estimate at $150 and diagnostics at $285 per hour exist to produce.
Open a file on this repair
Tell us the vehicle, what happened and whether a claim is open. We will tell you what the scope looks like and what it takes to get you back on the road.
Or call (949) 799-3387
